a south east coast road trip from sydney to melbourne
Where: Sydney, Katoomba, Blackheath, Narooma, Melbourne, Mallacoota. Australia, Oceania
When: August 2015
What: Climbing the Sydney Harbour Bridge, Sydney Opera House, Sydney Tower Eye, Stroking a Koala Bear, Kangaroos, Feeding a Wallaby, Seals, Princes Highway, Grand Pacific Drive, Iconic Cell Block H Wall, Melbourne Graffiti, Iconic Wildlife Signage, Blue Mountains, Australia Rock, Wild West Architecture, Channel 10 Studios of Cell Block H fame
Counter: 1 country
Mishaps or illnesses: Travel sickness from long car journeys; slipping on a rock at Narooma and landing in a rock pool narrowly avoiding the loss of my camera
Australia is a truly iconic destination - its buildings, its wildlife and even its shape are known around the world. It's a land of kangaroos and koalas, aborigines and the dusty red outback, surfer dudes and spectacularly bad, but equally addictive, television soap operas. Of course, away from these superficial images of Oz lies a country as complex as it is vast. It's a country struggling to reconcile its traditional beliefs underpinned by Christianity with the more liberal demands of a modern, cosmopolitan populace in its big cities. Indeed, the debate about whether to legalise gay marriage dominated the headlines during our stay. Australia's glitzy cities feel seemingly at odds with the country's First Nation population with racial tensions finding their expression through quiet, dignified protest: "Black houses on black land" declared one giant banner flapping along the walls of the train station as we were entering Sydney Central. Similarly, watching Australia's morning TV programme Sunrise, which has a large window backdrop out onto a Sydney street and which presenters sit in front of, an Indigenous man holds up a placard declaring "I won't be bullied by racist neighbours or government". The Sunrise cameras do their best to avoid the placard taking centre stage but fail dismally. Add to this Australia's British colonial hangover, the cultural and economic influence of Asian neighbours such as China, Japan and Korea, and it's safe to say that you've got a very interesting country ahead of you when you step off the plane. Australia's not all cute koalas and opera houses and it didn't take me long to see beyond the country's more obvious icons and glimpse what really makes it tick.
My journey to Australia marked my 66th country and, touching down on Oceania, also my fifth continent. Going Down Under is the furthest south I have ever travelled and the first time I've crossed the Equator; Australia therefore broke new travel ground for me - literally and metaphorically. Taking three connecting flights to get there, it's also the furthest I have ever travelled to get to a single destination. This was a mini road trip, by Australian standards anyway, along part of the famous Princes Highway and a small part of the picturesque Grand Pacific Drive from Sydney down the coast to Melbourne, stopping overnight along the way at lesser-known places like Narooma and Mallacoota to sample Aussie life outside of the state capitals. A visit to New South Wales' Blue Mountains at both Blackheath and Katoomba using the Aussie train network ensured we included a token dip into Australia's bushland too. We were keen not to repeat the mistakes of a similar trip along Canada's eastern coastline by train in 2011 which was exclusively city-based and therefore lacked an authentic, local edge away from the tourist honey traps. Once you've seen one city, you've seen them all, right? Our Aussie adventure was therefore deliberately varied: cosmopolitan cities, coastlines, countryside, bushland and frontier towns with Wild West-style architecture - all by rail and by hire car.
Update: In March 2016 I emigrated to Sydney, Australia. Check out my Australia Blog which charts the highs and lows of my move Down Under.
the new south wales state capital
City of world renown and our base for the first four days of our trip was Sydney, in the popular mind the de-facto 'capital' of Australia. The actual capital is Canberra - Australia's political and administrative centre and, being thus, no one seems to want to go there - least of all tourists. It's not too dissimilar to other countries which have split their capital cities in two: Turkey's Ankara/Istanbul, Canada's Ottawa/Toronto and, perhaps most notably of all, the USA's Washington DC/New York. It's unlike me to visit a country and not experience its capital but, to use the Aussie vernacular, I don't "give a stuff". No one else cares about Canberra, so why should I?
Sydney has an impressive downtown area (Aussies use the term 'CBD' instead of city centre). Its glass towers make you feel like you're locked into a some sort of corporate nightmare but the city's independent cafés and bistros go a long way to curbing this impersonal corporate excess by adding a much-needed slice of local flavour. Many serve an awesome latte with equally awesome Aussie friendliness. Note to self: Aussies tend to talk. A lot. In fact, to use current parlance, they 'over share'. It is quite normal to get a chunk of someone's life story wherever you happen to be: browsing in a clothes store, travelling in a lift, standing on a street corner waiting for the pedestrian lights to change. They also tend to interject in what you had assumed was a private conversation, joining in as if they know you. Never before have I been so reminded of my British reserve and aloofness than in Australia. Some find Aussie frankness rude, others liberating and refreshing. I'd opt for the latter.
Our first morning in Sydney was spent sleeping off the very worst of the jet lag caused by a nine-hour jump forward to Australian Eastern Standard Time (AEST) and a full 24 hours of travelling in an aluminium tube at 40,000 feet. The afternoon comprised of an impatient walk, fuelled by excitement, down to Sydney's famous harbour with its iconic bridge and even more iconic opera house. A short ferry ride out to Kirribilli and back gave us advantageous views of both of them. In the back of my mind I couldn't help but brood over the fact that in half a day's time I'd be climbing to the top of one of them...
The Sydney Harbour Bridge is the largest single span arch bridge in the world and was, incongruously, designed by a company in Middlesbrough, UK. For around £150, and by booking well in advance online, you can climb over the top of the bridge's famous iron arch. It just so happened to be my birthday, too. Viewing the famous Sydney Opera House and the glittering towers of Sydney's CBD from a unique 360 degree standpoint was a pretty amazing way to spend my birthday - one spoilt marginally by the forceful whacking of my head on one of its steel girders. Unfortunately this would not be the last stupidity-induced injury I was to suffer on my journey Down Under.
I have been to the top of many a world tower - from Lithuania to Canada . I was not about to make an exception for Sydney. An obligatory trip to the top of the woefully-named 'Sydney Tower Eye' completed my suite of stunning photographs of Sydney's skyscrapers and downtown area. These observation towers are often some of the worst tourist honey traps going but the views they provide are often well worth it. Bring your camera and a dose of tourist tolerance. A place in Sydney which also had me running for the exit was Darling Harbour - a waterside location stuffed full of families, chain restaurants and street vendors selling 'I love Sydney' baseball caps. It was horrendous and we got out pretty quick. Nothing to see here, move along please.
Having already ticked off two bucket list items in the Harbour Bridge and Opera House, the next was to stroke a Koala Bear - one of Australia's most iconic indigenous, and absolutely wonderful, creatures. Koalas are more protected by government legislation now than at any time in the past and this means that the days of holding or hugging one are long gone. We travelled out to the Doonside suburb of Sydney to the Featherdale Wildlife Park travelling on trains, taxis and buses to get there. Being a little more off the beaten track meant that the sanctuary sidesteps the worst of the tourist hordes resulting in a more intimate experience. This was really the only option as the local Sydney city zoo, Taronga, had long stopped the tourist petting of Koalas as it was just not sustainable with the numbers of tourists visiting there. I was more than satisfied, though, with the chance to stand next to a Koala called Chloe and stroke her rough, thick fur. She was fast asleep on a branch stuffed full of eucalyptus leaves and took absolutely no notice of me. A member of staff was on hand to ensure that each person patting Chloe's furry behind was doing so in exactly the correct way and that all camera flashes were switched off. Apparently when the bears are fed up of being petted, they simply climb down the trunk and waddle off. Some stay for ten minutes and others, like Chloe, stay for a couple of hours (the government imposes a strict limit of three hours for this kind of thing). The park also allowed me to see other weird and wonderful creatures unique to Australia: Wombats, Quokkas and Echidnas. I also ended up feeding a few Wallabies (small Kangaroos) who had taken a liking to the cone of food I was holding. I wasn't to know it at the time but we were to see plenty of Kangaroos out in the wild on our driving tour of the south east coast of the country.
The awesome sail-like shapes of the iconic Sydney Opera House.
Climbing to the top of the Sydney Harbour Bridge Climb affords wonderful views of the famous harbour.
Sydney's CBD is as close as you'll get to a Manhattan in the Southern Hemisphere.
katoomba & blackheath
bushwalking in the blue mountains
Sixty miles west of Sydney, and easily accessible by train from Sydney Central, lies the Blue Mountains region which has some of the grandest and greatest views of bushland going. Vast valleys are covered with eucalyptus gum trees which emit an oily mist giving the mountains a blue hue and thus this region's name. A trip out to the Blue Mountains is a chance to experience one of Australia's most popular bushwalking destinations in easy reach of a major city.
You can book yourself on a tour for around one hundred Australian dollars but to be honest it's no great feat to organise and travel independently - for a fraction of the price too. A two hour train trip from Sydney Central to Katoomba or Blackheath costs just $9 (that's £4.50) and is in itself a chance to sample train travel in New South Wales as well as travelling the way locals do - infinitely more preferable to being loaded onto a coach with irritating tourists with their selfie sticks and bussed about along characterless motorways. The journey along the Blue Mountain Line, with wacky place names like 'Zig Zag', 'Parramatta' and 'Bullaburra', is both scenic and suburban. Head for the front or back carriages to enjoy this part of Oz rolling by in almost complete silence these being the quiet carriages (no talking allowed!)
The must-see vista of the Blue Mountains is Echo Point at Katoomba with its Three Sisters rock formation. It being a must-see means you're likely to share your wow moment with coach loads of infuriatingly excitable tourists screaming and laughing at the top of their voices at the view of Jamison Valley. Quite why looking at an incredible landscape is so hilarious I have no idea. Because they always seem to travel on coach tours, rather than independently, they often come in groups of fifty plus which then, without warning, descend en-mass. If you head to Echo Point yourself, take earplugs and a reserve supply of patience. Two stops further along the train line from Katoomba, and a place which sidesteps the worst of the aforementioned tourist hordes, is the town of Blackheath. It's the kind of place which has quirky little cafes, retro reclamation shops with golliwogs for sale in the window (yes, you read that right) and where locals pass you by but not before they've greeted you with the obligatory "G'day". Being a little off the tourism trail Blackheath retains a local and authentic charm and is the best place to base yourself if you're considering an overnight stay in the Blue Mountains. We stayed the night at the wonderful Glenella Guesthouse, a characteristically Australian building built in Victorian times complete with wooden verandah and corrugated tin roofing. Being high above sea level, and with August being the Australian winter, temperatures dropped to near zero. Luckily, the guesthouse came complete with a log fire and an electric blanket. It was also perfectly positioned for a spot of bushwalking along the valley's edge. We opted for the Cliff Top Track - some five kilometres along a dusty path which cut through dense eucalyptus trees with steep ascents and descents, and with awesome lookout points along the way to take in the immensity of the view uninterrupted.
The giant gorge of eucalyptus trees at Blackheath seen from one of the lookout points along the five kilometre Cliff Top Track.
The bulky white trunk of a eucalyptus trees against blue sky at Blackheath.
new south wales coastal township
Narooma is around five hundred kilometres from Sydney: enter stage left our hire car. The journey to Narooma, renowned for its whale watching opportunities, took us along the very scenic Princes Highway and a small chunk of the Great Pacific Road. If the scenery, sudden rises, falls and zig-zags of the road don't keep you interested the bizarre place names like 'Bombo', 'Jamberoo', 'Ullawulla' and 'Gerringong' will. Honestly, I am convinced there is not a bland place name in the whole country. For added local flavour on your driving trip try listening to the National Indigenous Radio station or you could look out for the iconic yellow diamond signs along the route warning drivers of kangaroos, possums or wombats crossing. Unfortunately any road journey in Australia will inevitably be interspersed with sightings of squashed wombats and large kangaroos slumped dead over motorway barriers. The amount of roadkill in Australia is extraordinary. With an expanse of majestic and magical scenery and mutilated animals, our car driving adventure oscillated between the heavenly and the truly horrific.
Driving meant that we also got to see the curiously incongruous architecture of the south coast's small towns - a number of which we stopped off at for a coffee and snack. These were places which would look more at home in the American Wild West: wooden panelled shop fronts with corrugated tin roofs and wooden verandahs. All that was needed to complete the picture were dusty roads and horses and possibly a couple of cowboys gun slinging. Narooma township had some wonderful examples of this style of architecture which owes its roots to the gold rush of the late nineteenth century and could so easily have been the backdrop to an episode of 'Dr Quinn Medicine Woman'.
We set off early the next morning to 'do' Narooma before crossing the New South Wales border and onto the capital of Victoria state: Melbourne. Having driven for eight hours along the Princes Highway from Sydney, we arrived in a freezing cold Narooma and checked into our motel (my first experience of such). Arriving so late meant that Narooma was pretty much a rest stop along a bigger journey to Melbourne. We'd left it too late to organise a whale watching trip so satisfied ourselves with a walk along the coastline in the hope of seeing another famous Narooma inhabitant: seals. Grey seals sunning themselves on grey rocks are very hard to spot. Luckily for us, a whole hareem of seals had taken to basking in the sunshine right opposite Australia Rock, a rock formation whose hole recreates the iconic outline of the country. Unfortunately for me, this was where I had accident number two. Wearing completely the wrong gear for scrabbling over wet rocks to get a better shot of Australia Rock I slipped and landed on my back in a rock pool - soaking everything I was wearing and very nearly claiming my non-water resistant camera and phone. Luckily they survived with no water ingress - but only just. My stint as a really poor excuse for a mermaid soon revealed another symptom after the adrenaline had subsided: very sore ribs which made it painful to move and breathe deeply. Whoops! I thanked myself that it was not any worse. Not for the first time on the trip, the first aid kit came into its own. Narooma, and me, were well and trulydone.
En-route to Narooma: a stop-off at Bald Hill to pick up a coffee from a burger van brings me face to face with a Crimson Rosella parrot. These were a common sight on my trip in south east Australia.
Australia Rock at Narooma beach whose formation mimics the outline of Australia.
A seal enjoys the sunshine along the Narooma coast.
the victorian state capital
Melbourne is the capital of Victoria state - our second, and last, of Australia's capital cities. All signs told us that Melbourne would not be a reprise of Sydney; Melbourne was different. There is a distinct sense of rivalry between the two cities - Sydneysiders stating, perhaps a little disparagingly, that Melbourne was "very different" - the word very often followed by a raise of the eyebrow or a serious, disapproving, tone. One friend summed it up succinctly, passing on a well-oiled Melbourne phrase: "If Australia were a body, Sydney would be its heart but Melbourne would be its soul." Sydney has the internationally recognised icons but Melbourne has... well, what exactly? Everyone has heard of Melbourne - but just how many can say what's actually there?
Whereas Sydney is corporate, mainstream and touristy, Melbourne is alternative, creative and edgy - although your initial impression of the city may mistakenly be formed on its CBD and glitzy shopping arcades. A walk along the Yarra River with its token skyscrapers, glass fronted restaurants and joggers in lycra is all pretty soulless stuff and characteristic of most modern cities these days. However, Melbourne is one of those places which insists you work that little bit harder to get to the real heart. The city's Laneways are a good place to start - grungy alleyways and backstreets where small, independent bistros, coffee shops and eateries are crammed - so much so they appear to ooze out from their cramped units and onto the tiled lanes themselves and all the while any scrap of free wall space has been claimed by urban graffiti artists (of varying abilities). Indeed, there are some alleyways which have become one huge graffiti canvas where artists have been allowed to run riot with their ideas and their spray cans. We tracked down the most famous: Hosier Street. I have seen graffiti before, but never in such three dimensional density. Walls, doors and windows are covered from top to bottom. Even the bins have reluctantly become part of the artwork.
Whereas Sydney is about the CBD, Melbourne is about its suburbs - small, trendy areas with independent bars and restaurants like the area of Collingwood. These kinds of places are where 'real Melbournians' go for a night out and are probably the best place to head to if you want to go beyond surface city sightseeing. We went to a small restaurant on Gertrude Street run by an Aussie rendering of Jack and Vera from Corrie. Vera's favourite word was "darl" (darling) and we exchanged stories with Jack about Australian soap operas. The food was naff, but the fun and a glimpse into real Melbourne life more than made up for it.
Melbourne's modern architecture, like wavy apartment buildings, multi-coloured abstract fascias (most notably that of the RMIT building) and cubist carbuncles (like that of the truly gross Federation Square), tries to emulate, or at least reflect, the city's alternative and anti-mainstream disposition. Some of these buildings would not be out of place in an optical illusion whilst others border on the utterly surreal. Half the time I wondered if my flat white had been drugged. Melbourne is a far more interesting place to photograph than Sydney. Such creativity is juxtaposed with Victorian era buildings which help anchor the city's architectural extravagance and give it, at least, some sense of history.
The soap opera 'Neighbours' has been made in a Melbourne suburb since its inception. We were considering going on the official Neighbours tour but, realising I actually haven't watched it in years and won't know what it was I would be photographing, we decided to give it a miss. However, from this I discovered that a soap I had watched religiously as a teenager, 'Prisoner: Cell Block H', was also made in the city. Further digging around online revealed that the iconic red brick wall, which featured in every episode as the exterior of the jail, was still there - and had, after more than three decades, retained many of its fake windows and bars. So, a trip out to Nunawading some 30km outside of Melbourne by train and then taxi, brought me face to face with the wall I had seen so many times on my TV - but not before walking through a private housing estate, squeezing through bushes and pressing my camera against the perimeter fence of the former Channel 10 studios. A chat with the security guard at the entrance to the now named Nunawading studios, and by putting on my best personable performance, yielded no closer access. In typical Aussie bluntness he said he didn't give "a rat's arse" about me going in there to take photos of a building, but said his hands were tied and he wasn't allowed to let us in. Never mind. I was more than satisfied with what I'd seen. A very niche day trip out, certainly, but a brilliant one too.
A rather flattering shot of Melbourne's rather carbuncular Federation Square. Nice to photograph but probably not nice to have to see every day.
A rather wonderful mosaic sculpture along the banks of the River Yarra.
A winter's scene along the River Yarra.
The graffiti canvas that is Melbourne's Hosier Street.
St Kilda beach layers: sand, sea and sky.
victoria's south coast
Mallacoota was on our itinerary because it's not to far off being half-way between Melbourne and Sydney - an overnight stop along the south coast to break up what would otherwise have been an unmanageable fourteen hour drive. Our arrival in Mallacoota reads like the opening of a classic horror story... We arrive at dusk, two tired and weary travellers in a hire car from the state's big city. Access to the lodge comes from driving along roads with thick woodland on either side with hazardous hairpin bends. Every other car we see is heading in the opposite direction to where we are going. Pulling into the shingled car park it becomes obvious we are the only guests staying at this Victorian guesthouse that night. Walking up the steps to the wooden verandah and into an unlocked lodge we find a note. The owner is not here either. He'll be back soon. "Make yourselves at home, you are in room #1" the note reads. Hungry from a seven hour drive we head into the 'centre' of Mallacoota. No one is around here, either. Where is everybody? A smell of wintry smoke fills the air...
Our only evening in Mallacoota was spent catching a few shots of the lakeside view, passing a mob of what seemed to be giant kangaroos, and then heading into the main 'town' (population: 900) for a meal at the local hotel - which was as old-fashioned as they come: outdated and yellowing sports photographs of the local team hung on the wall, dusty animal heads from past hunting successes joined them and...the food was lovely! A log fire greeted us on return to the lodge, as did, thankfully the owner who gave us the keys to his house and buggered off. A small heater and electric blankets kept the worst of the cold out of our little cabin, taking us swiftly to morning - and the most Aussie dawn chorus imaginable. I was not surprised to learn that Australian birds have the record of being the loudest in the world.
Malacoota Inlet seen from our guesthouse porch. The birdsong in the morning was magical.
travel tips, links & resources
- Unless you're a New Zealand citizen you'll need a visa to get into Australia. If you're a British citizen residing in the UK, you'll also need a visa - but it's free and quick to get one. All completely online, getting an Australian visa has got to be the easiest visa I have ever had the pleasure of acquiring. It came through within thirty minutes of setting up an 'Immi' account.
- There's a lot to be said for flying between Melbourne and Sydney - but make sure you find time to sample life outside of the big cities for a slice of Australia less impacted by tourism.
- Road tripping is a quintessentially Australian pastime. Aside from flying, it is really the only practicable way of travelling around this giant scorched land (what's that, you say, no train link between Sydney and Melbourne?) Incorporating a road trip element not only affords you a more grass roots experience, but you also have a chance of spotting the curiously large objects along roadsides, called 'Big Things'. Expect to see anything from giant bananas, to guitars, rocking horses and a crocodile wearing boxing gloves. It's a glimpse into the irreverent humour of the Aussies and part of the culture which has developed around long road trips.
- There's a nasty practise of hotels charging you 2% for using your credit card to pay for your stay. Check before booking or get stung with a hefty hidden extra.
- Contrary to what you may expect, public transport in NSW and Victoria is very cheap. Each state uses its own London-style Oyster card system which links most forms of transport. NSW has the Opal card, Victoria has the Myki card.
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